Bhutan—Notes from a Journey
5th day, 4th temple
We slip off shoes leave them on stone steps
pull aside the fiercely colored cloth curtaining the doorway
step over not on the 7th century threshold
onto burnished wood worn polished
a patina from thousands of bare feet.
Color bursts from exuberant textiles
incense strong but not sweet
the smell of butter from the butter lamps.
6th day, 11th temple
Our daughter and the two monks traveling with us
make their prostrations. Offering of money in hand
we touch it to our foreheads lay it on an altar filled
with flowers fruits food flanked by two elephant tusks.
The caretaker monk lifts an elegant vessel
the thinnest of spouts peacock feather adorning its lid
pours a small puddle of sacred water into my cupped hand.
I take a small sip spread the rest on my head.
One of the monks begins to explain the stacked images
of gods painted on every inch of wall.
Deities myriad reincarnations of deities a multitude
of manifestations some benevolent some angry
multiple gurus arhats [what are arhats?]
the Bodhisattvas [spelling?]
countless forms of Padmasambhava,
more variations than the arms of Chenresig—
that deity sometimes seen with eleven heads
a thousand arms an eye in every palm.
Our guide called him Avalokiteshvara.
I finally learned how to say that—and it rolls off the tongue
rather nicely, doesn’t it? A-va-lo-ki-tesh-va-ra.
And I figured out that Padmasambhava—
the one who brought Buddhism to Bhutan—
is the one they’re calling Guru Rinpoché “precious teacher”
and I remember that Milarepa is a poet
but I’ve lost track—who is Pema Lingpa?
7th day, 17th temple
Always move clockwise
always behind each altar golden statues
always three important ones different in every temple
sometimes Sakyamuni the Buddha
Bhutan—Notes from a Journey, p.2
and I know he’s here I see the coiled hair.
I’ve learned to recognize the next one, too
founder of Bhutan Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
the third one? I’ve no idea.
Surrounding them a semi-circle of more statues
every detail significant how each body is positioned
their garments what they’re sitting on
their mudra or hand gesture. Once again
walls packed with paintings the storytelling begins.
Gods more gods demigods demons
depictions of local protective deities, too—
trying to make sense I sink in this lake of—
It’s all too much for me this complex pantheon.
8th day, 18th temple
Punakha every surface coated in gold. Today our monks—
by now our friends—are wearing their finest
sweeping red robes generous drape of orange scarf
and on their chests bright sparks of the royal yellow
signify their high ranking.
The stories continue miracles bigger than life
stories that require putting aside doubt suspending disbelief.
8th day, 21st temple
—the weight of it all—
still I bend my head to his quiet voice
try to listen to follow pull something out
something to grasp perhaps words that form stepping stones
so I can make my way to temple after temple
without drowning in the detail.
Then as he speaks from the heart
of Buddhist thought three pillars rise
the first one gratitude to all who help along the way
and then loving-kindness
to those whose paths intersect with mine
the third compassion the eyes to see another’s pain.
As I step outside of yet one more temple
I slip one foot into the shoe of gratitude.
Melissa Huff feeds her poetry from the power and mystery of the natural world and the ways in which body, nature and spirit intertwine. An advocate of the power of poetry presented out loud, she twice won awards in the BlackBerry Peach Prizes for Poetry: Spoken and Heard, sponsored by the (U.S.) National Federation of State Poetry Societies. Recent publishing credits include Gyroscope Review, Snapdragon: A Journal of Art and Healing, Persimmon Tree, Blue Heron Review, andAmethyst Review. Melissa has been frequently sighted making her way between Illinois and Colorado.
